Neither of us had ever been to Cyprus.... and it was so close (well, relatively speaking), the weather looked amazing and a friend of Chris from his crazy teenage years at the Sailing centre lives there, so what more reasons did we need?!
A 90 minute flight saw us touching down in Paphos in brilliant sunshine, 29°C, and we had that wonderful feeling of stepping off the plane into a sauna! We weren't meeting up with Pete until Monday, so we got a taxi to our Air bnb, which was well located about 6 minutes walk from the promenade. It was a 2 bedroom apartment with a nice balcony, and a much needed appliance... travelling light means we needed the washing machine! A quick unpack and then out for a walk and to find somewhere to eat as the sun set.
Close to the restaurant was a Georgian restaurant which came well recommended. When in Cyprus, eat Georgian! They use a lot of walnuts in their cooking. The aubergine stuffed with walnuts paste was amazing.
In fact the whole meal was delicious, and I really enjoyed the Georgian lemonade. Another country for the list!
After dinner we found our way to the waterside boardwalk and headed into town. It was still warm enough to be in shorts and a t-shirt - heaven! The central area was quietly bustling, with busy restaurants and people promenading.
After a good nights sleep, and breakfast on the balcony, it was already hot. We set off to walk to the harbour and the Unesco World Heritage site, the archeological area of Nea Paphos. Once again, Chris' beard was invaluable. They took one look and waved us in free as pensioners!
Cyprus fitted well into our trip as it too has been swapped between many cultures! Settled by Greek civilisations since Neolithic times, it was never ruled by Greece. Cyprus was annexed by the Romans 58 bce. Next, part of the Byzantine Empire in the 4th–12th centuries ce, then was conquered by English king Richard I, Lionheart, in 1191. Next a part of the Venetian trading empire from 1489, it was taken by the Ottoman Empire in 1571. In 1878 the British assumed control, and Cyprus became a British crown colony in 1925. It gained independence in 1960.
There are traces of many of these civilisations around the island.
In the archeological park, the remains are mainly Greek and Roman. The vast site contains remains of fortresses, underground tunnels and chambers, and the huge defensive walls, built partly into the natural rock, and with bridge gates, which would have led to boat docks.
In the centre is an enormous Agora, or Greek meeting place, later used by the Romans as the forum, which would have been surrounded by arches and grand buildings with judicial, business and social functions.
On one side is a Romano Greek Odeon, or theatre. The archeological work here is very much ongoing. The entire site was only discovered in 1962, when a farmer ploughing his field found a mosaic! Paphos lighthouse is at the highest point, built by the British in 1888, there may have been a roman light tower here originally.
The real highlight of the site are the remains of 4 grand Roman Villas.
The largest had over 100 rooms! Enough remains of their walls to see their layout and function, but their absolute glory are the mosaic floors.
Wow. The two largest villas are open air, and the mosaics are covered in the winter to preserve them. One house had a huge courtyard with mosaic walkways around the outside.
You could even walk on one section, imagining Roman feet doing the same 1800 years ago.
The other 2 houses have been covered, and, in particular the house of Dionysius, we had the sense that we were looking at the Roman equivalent of fitted carpet!
The mosaics also have a great social and historical function as they illustrate clothing of the period, and daily life, as well as mythological stories. A truly incredible place.
From here we walked to the busy harbour and went in the fortress, built in the mid 13th century, with a good view from the top!
Next, uphill to St Paul's church, built in 1548, to replace an old church on the site of one of the places he stopped on his first mission, and where he was beaten scourged. A service was in progress but afterwards we went in to this small but atmospheric church, surrounded by archeological excavations!
As we continued up the hill, we had some savoury pastries from the bakery for lunch.. pastries plus 2 drinks, 5 euros!
All around, remnants of the ancient city are being discovered. An aqueduct, site of roman baths, early christian church and mediaeval baths.
Our goal was the catacombs, a vast area of tunnels and compartments cut into the sandstone at the edge of the old city for the burial of the dead. Being soft rock, much has eroded, but there is enough left to give a sense of the scale of the place. The ubiquitous cats liked the cool interior!
Interestingly, on the hill top, an older, pre roman, hellenistic mosaic has been found, the oldest in Paphos, and made of pebbles, not tiles.
By now, the temperature was 31°C and we had walked about 4.5 miles, so we headed back, past the closed cathedral,
and a hire shop that possibly reflects the winter demographic of visitors! We were tempted!
Back to our air conditioned apartment for a very late siesta! Then Pete called and suggested a sundowner at the Quay! Why not! And a super sunset over the castle.
We saw a kingfisher on the way, planned tomorrow's outing, and then had a nice, light meal at Pinguinos, including a true Cypriot product Halloumi, while avoiding the imploring gaze of the cat.
The local football was on, and we discovered that Paphos, by winning, went top of the Cyprus Premier League!
Next morning, Pete picked us up and we headed to the north coast, via his sailing club at Aghios Giorghios, such a pretty little harbour, although no-one is heeding the warning sign!
They are looking for turtles. The water is incredibly clear.
There is an offshore island, Yeronissos, and this is Pete's boat, a trimaran called a Weta. Next we headed up into the mountains of the Akama National Park, through pretty villages, and then a brilliant walk up to a great viewpoint.
We had earned our lovely lunch, down in a harbourside restaurant at Latchi.
Our drive back went past lovely flowers.
That evening we weren't really hungry so we walked along the promenade in the opposite direction, past the small public beach and some very grand hotels. Obviously this cat had put his towel out early! Then we strolled back down to the harbour and had rather delicious icecreams for supper and Anne paddled! A lovely day!
Our last full day in Cyprus saw Pete nobly drive us across the island to Nicosia, the bustling capital. Nicosia is currently the only world capital that is divided by a no man's land.
Conflict between Greek and Turkish Cypriots led to the establishment of a United Nations (UN) peacekeeping mission in 1964. In 1974, fearing a movement to unite Cyprus with Greece, the Republic of Turkey sent troops to occupy the northern third of the island. There were bloody exchanges, with many people being forced out of their homes. Turkish Cypriots established a functioning government, which is only recognised by Turkey. The UN peacekeeping mission has remained in place. There is a full border crossing point, the Green Line, where passports are required. Relations are less strained than they once were, but not harmonious! As we drove into Nicosia, there was a large Turkish Cypriot flag carved into the hills on 'their' side!
The bullet holes from the conflict are still much in evidence, dotted between the quaint buildings.
This is Ledra street, leading to the border, which cuts Nicosia's main street in two. This is the Peace bench just near the border.
As we crossed into Nicosia in Northern, Turkish Cyprus, the contrast was immediate. Gone were the high rise, glass towers and western shops. We were in a world of crumbling streets, older colonial architecture, bazaars and restaurants. It was quite charming.
The old Post office, Court house and many buildings date from British colonial rule. And of course, the post boxes!
We saw the UN watch tower with no man's land beyond, set on the old city walls from built by theVenetians in 1567.
In the centre of town was the Büyük Han, a large caravanserai built in 1572 by the Ottomans, with a central fountain and prayer space. Once the centre for trading merchants to stable their animals, sleep upstairs, and eat and trade, it sort of fills the same function today.
We had an excellent 'light' lunch, trying local dips and pastries. A man was performing miracles with the pastry dough, stretching a ball of dough into a sheet about 1.5 metres x 3 metres, which he then used to make more little pastries filled with sweet ricotta. Most actions - the stretching, rolling and cutting, were done with what looked like a broom handle! Wonderful.
We continued our wanderings! The main mosque... which was built as a Catholic cathedral in the 13th century, was inaccessible due to renovations. Surprisingly, there is an Armenian church and nunnery! And of course the markets... and I found some lovely bowls! The leg is Chris, desperately trying to stop me buying one... but I have 2kg extra on the flight home!!
We also spotted a Raki still, and some interesting street art! Back to Paphos, and a short rest before heading out for a last night meal at the Seven St George's. A family run restaurant well away from the town centre, which uses local produce, and has no menu.
Small plates of mezzes and local dishes are brought to the table until all participants surrender! Then, just when you think you can't eat any more, they bring a dessert! Bizarrely, very British in style - sticky toffee pudding, chocolate pudding or crumble!
Next day, we have a last walk to the harbour and pack our bags. Pete collects us and takes us to the great Tsiakkas restaurant by the water for a last lunch.
Then off into the national park again, to the Avakas Gorge walk. This necessitated driving along many dirt tracks, but Pete's car coped brilliantly, although I think we should have donated to a car wash fund! Then a lovely walk to the incredible gorge with its balancing boulder!
